Kakheti Wine Route: A Road Trip Guide

Kakheti, in eastern Georgia, is the country's wine region. Vineyards spread across the Alazani valley, historic monasteries, royal palaces and hilltop towns all lie close to each other, which is exactly why the region is ideal for exploring by car. In this article we've brought together everything you need to plan the Kakheti wine route by car: ways to get there from Tbilisi, sights around Telavi, a sample two-day itinerary and what to keep in mind with a rental car.

Which road from Tbilisi to Telavi?

Two main roads lead from Tbilisi to Telavi, the heart of the region:

• Gombori Pass: At around 95–100 kilometres, this is the shortest route, climbing to about 1,600 metres. It's paved and scenic but winding; under normal conditions it takes 1.5–2 hours.
• Kakheti main road (via Sagarejo): A slightly longer but flatter route. If you want to stop in Sighnaghi, this road makes more sense.

Most travellers take one road there and the other back, touring the region in a loop. In winter there can be snow on the Gombori Pass, so the main road is easier in that season.

You can pick up your car at Tbilisi Airport and head straight to Kakheti, or travel to the region another way and rent a car in Telavi. Remember that the minimum rental period is 3 days.

What to see in and around Telavi

Telavi

Telavi, the largest town in the region, is known for the Batonis Tsikhe fortress, home to the palace of King Erekle II of Kakheti. The town centre is a good base to stay in while you explore.

Tsinandali

Just outside Telavi, Tsinandali is famous for the estate and gardens of the Chavchavadze family, poets and aristocrats. The estate's wine cellar is a good place to start understanding the region's wine history.

Alaverdi Cathedral

Rising in the middle of the Alazani valley, Alaverdi is known as Georgia's second-tallest cathedral. With the Caucasus Mountains behind it, it offers one of the most impressive views in the region. When visiting, remember to dress appropriately for a religious site.

Gremi

North-east of Telavi, Gremi is the former capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti. The fortress-church complex on the hill offers a wide view over the valley.

Sighnaghi and Bodbe Monastery

Ringed by walls and filled with red-roofed houses, Sighnaghi is a hilltop town overlooking the Alazani valley and the mountains beyond. Nearby Bodbe Monastery is important as the burial place of Saint Nino, who is believed to have brought Christianity to Georgia.

Qvevri: Kakheti's wine tradition

What makes Kakheti special is that wine is made in qvevri, large clay vessels buried in the ground. This traditional method is on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Many family wineries and cellars in the region offer tastings and tours; it's a good idea to check whether they're open before you visit.

Tasting and driving: be careful!

The alcohol limit in Georgia is very low. Tasting wine on a wine route and then driving is both dangerous and against the rules. Here are a few options:

• One person in the group stays sober and drives that day,
• Plan tastings within walking distance in the town where you're staying,
• Add a chauffeur service, which can be reserved in advance when you book.

What to know with a rental car

• David Gareja by 4x4 only: The last stretch of the road to this famous rock-cut monastery complex in southern Kakheti is rough; under the rental terms it can only be reached in 4x4 vehicles.
• Vashlovani and Tusheti are off-limits: No rental car may enter the Vashlovani Protected Area or the Pshaveli–Omalo (Tusheti) road; violations carry a 500 USD fine.
• Watch out for gravel roads: Sedans and minivans may not be driven on unpaved roads. The road to some small wineries may be dirt, so ask before you go.
• Animals on village roads: Herds of cows and sheep often wander onto the road; drive slowly, especially in the late afternoon.

Sample two-day itinerary

1. Day 1: Tbilisi to Telavi via the Gombori Pass; in the afternoon Batonis Tsikhe and the Tsinandali estate, then an evening tasting at a cellar in Telavi (don't drive that evening).
2. Day 2: Alaverdi Cathedral and Gremi in the morning; in the afternoon head south through the valley to Sighnaghi and Bodbe Monastery; in the evening drive back to Tbilisi on the main road.

If you have time, an extra night in Sighnaghi lets you watch the sunset from the town walls.

In short

• Tbilisi–Telavi via the Gombori Pass is about 100 km; take the main road back to tour the region in a loop.
• Telavi, Tsinandali, Alaverdi, Gremi, Sighnaghi and Bodbe are the highlights of the route.
• On tasting days, pick a designated driver or add a chauffeur service.
• David Gareja requires a 4x4; rental cars may not be driven on the Vashlovani and Tusheti roads.

For full details of the rental terms, read our guide to car rental in Georgia, and see prices for all pick-up points on the Georgia page.