Tbilisi to Kazbegi by Car: The Georgian Military Road

Running north from Tbilisi towards the Russian border, the Georgian Military Road is one of the most scenic roads in the Caucasus. Reservoirs, historic fortresses, ski resorts and a mountain pass of nearly 2,400 metres line up along a single route. At the end of the road, the town of Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) awaits at the foot of snow-capped Mount Kazbek. In this guide we cover the distance, stops, winter conditions and what to keep in mind with a rental car if you're driving from Tbilisi to Kazbegi by car.

Distance and driving time

Tbilisi to Stepantsminda is about 150–155 kilometres. Without stops, the drive usually takes around 3 hours; depending on weather, traffic and roadworks, it can stretch to 4 hours. But the real joy of this road lies in the stops: including photo and meal breaks, we recommend allowing half a day for the way there and a full day for the round trip. If possible, stay a night in Kazbegi so you can see the mountains in the morning light.

If you pick up your car at Tbilisi Airport, you can head north without hitting city traffic at all. If you're staying in the city, the Tbilisi city centre pick-up point may be more convenient.

Stops along the way

Mtskheta

Shortly after leaving Tbilisi, where the Aragvi and Kura rivers meet, lies Mtskheta, Georgia's ancient capital. Its historic churches are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. You can also visit it on the way back.

Zhinvali Reservoir and Ananuri Fortress

The road's first big view is the turquoise Zhinvali Reservoir. Ananuri Fortress, on its shore, is about 70 kilometres from Tbilisi. The churches inside its walls and the lake view make it one of the most photographed spots on the route. 30–45 minutes is enough for a short stop.

Pasanauri

This small town in the Aragvi valley is one of the best-known food stops on the road. It's a good place to try khinkali, the famous classic of Georgian cuisine.

Gudauri and the Panorama Terrace

As the road climbs, you reach Gudauri, Georgia's largest ski resort. Shortly after Gudauri there's a large viewing terrace with a colourful mosaic overlooking the valley from above. Cars pull over at the roadside here; when parking, take care not to block traffic.

Jvari Pass

At around 2,400 metres, the Jvari (Cross) Pass is the highest point of the route. It can be chilly even in summer, so don't forget to bring a jacket. After the pass, the road descends into the Terek valley and reaches Stepantsminda.

Stepantsminda and Gergeti Trinity Church

On the hill above the town, the 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church, with Mount Kazbek behind it, has become a symbol of Georgia. The road up to the church is steep and winding; take it slowly in a low gear. If you prefer, you can also walk up from the town.

This road in winter

The Georgian Military Road is used in winter too, but the Jvari Pass may close temporarily when there's heavy snow and a risk of avalanches. Closures usually last a few hours or a few days. Check the current road conditions before you set off, and don't leave the pass until the evening.

• From November to April, winter tyres are included on rental cars.
• Snow chains can be added as an extra; we recommend them for this route in winter.
• If you're heading to Gudauri to ski, you can also add a ski rack.

What to watch out for with a rental car

• The Truso valley road is off-limits. This popular valley road in the Kazbegi area is among the roads banned by the rental terms; driving on it means a 500 USD fine. If you want to see Truso, opt for a local off-road tour.
• The Ananuri–Shatili road is off-limits too. This mountain road branching off north-east from Ananuri should not be confused with the Military Road.
• No crossing into Russia. The Russian border crossing lies north of Stepantsminda; the rental terms only allow crossing into Armenia.
• Heavy-goods traffic can be busy. As this is the main route to the border crossing, there are lots of lorries; avoid overtaking on bends.
• Fill up in advance. Petrol stations are scarce in the mountain section, so it's a good idea to fill the tank before leaving Tbilisi.
• A police report is mandatory after an accident. Without one, the insurance is void.

A sample day plan

1. 08:00 – Leave Tbilisi, with a short stop in Mtskheta.
2. 09:30 – Zhinvali Reservoir viewpoint and Ananuri Fortress.
3. 11:00 – Lunch in Pasanauri.
4. 12:30 – Gudauri, the Panorama Terrace and the Jvari Pass.
5. 14:00 – Stepantsminda and Gergeti Trinity Church.
6. 16:00 – Head back; try to cross the pass before dark.

Days are shorter in winter, so rather than squeezing this plan, consider staying overnight in Kazbegi.

In short

• Tbilisi–Kazbegi is about 150 km; allow a full day including stops.
• Ananuri, Gudauri, the Jvari Pass and Gergeti Trinity Church are the highlights of the route.
• The pass can close in winter; check road conditions and add snow chains.
• Don't take a rental car on the Truso and Shatili roads; there's no crossing into Russia.

For the full rental terms, see our guide to car rental in Georgia, and compare all pick-up points in Tbilisi on the Tbilisi car rental page.